Hiking from Larrasoana to Pamplona

Adam L. Maloney | Live the World

November 23, 2022

How I ended up here

There was only one way that I was ever going to end up in Larrasoana, by walking the early stages of the Camino de Santiago**. I had already hiked from the starting point of Saint-Jean-Pied de-Port** to Roncesvalles and then from Roncesvalles onto Larrasoana, meaning that today would be my third day of the journey and one that I was very much looking forward to, as I would be *hiking to Pamplona***, the first city along the route. And after three days of crossing mountains, walking through forest, farmland, green hills and isolated villages, I was already beginning to crave some bustle, a little bit of noise, nightlife and streets with a pulse.

Photo credit: © iStock/unikatdesign

Setting off

It's a nice feeling waking up in a town like Larrasoana. I awoke to the sound of roosters and church bells but apart from that, the town was near silent. I continued through the town, having one last look at the old stone *Basque houses* and the church with the bell tower before I made my way back into the countryside, following the yellow arrows on walls and signposts that guide you to the next town along the entire route of the Camino. I passed through another couple of small villages as the path led me into a dense forest where I was shaded from the sun by tall but narrow trees, and then across a stone bridge where fresh and cold water flowed over stones that seemed to be covering the entire bed of the shallow river.

Photo credit: © iStock/John Callery

Getting closer

I had spent the morning *hiking* with a Belgian and an Australian who I had met the day before during a short rest in the village of Burgette. There we had gone for a beer at what was once an old hangout of the writer **Ernest Hemingway**. By now however, we had lost each other somewhere along the path and I found myself alone hiking up the side of a modest-sized mountain where I walked past what looked like an abandoned church and farmhouse. This was shortly before descending to arrive at La Trinidad de Arre, which is a small church and albergue at the end of a beautiful stone bridge in the suburbs of Pamplona. From this point onwards, the countryside soon turned into city streets.

Photo credit: © Creative Commons/Miguel Á. Sancha M.

Arrving in Pamplona

There is no more of an epic way to arrive in Pamplona than via the path of the Camino de Santiago. As I arrived in a *green riverside* area of the city, I entered via the *old city walls* which have stood since the early 1500s, and passed through the 'Portal de Francia' to enter the old town as many pilgrims had done before me for centuries. I relied on following other hikers to reach the Albergue Jesús y María, a former church and school for priests built in 1782 and situated on a quiet backstreet in the historical centre.

Photo credit: © iStock/serjunco

“The atmosphere and architecture of Pamplona's old town made me fall in love with the city in an instance. Little did I know that just a couple of years later, it would be the place I call home.”

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