Welcome to Besançon, a city steeped in history and brimming with architectural wonders. Among its many treasures, one stands out as a testament to the grandeur of the Roman Empire - the Porte Noire, or the Black Gate. This 16.56-meter Gallo-Roman triumphal arch, built under the reign of Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century, is a captivating sight that transports visitors back in time.
As you approach the Porte Noire, you'll be struck by its imposing presence. This limestone arch, located at the southern end of the cardo, the main north-to-south route of the Roman city, stands as a silent witness to centuries of history. Its two facades, though weathered by time, still bear remnants of the intricate sculptures that once adorned them.
While the arch lacks a dedication, historians believe it was constructed during the second half of the 2nd century AD, under the rule of Marcus Aurelius. The depictions of war on the arch are thought to commemorate the victories of his adoptive brother and co-emperor, Lucius Verus, in the Roman–Parthian War. Some speculate that the arch was erected as a tribute to Marcus Aurelius for restoring peace after disturbances caused by the local Sequani Gallic tribe.
Over the centuries, the Porte Noire has witnessed numerous transformations. During the Merovingian dynasty, it served as fortifications, protecting the city from external threats. Originally adorned with vibrant colors, the arch acquired its name in the 11th century when it was blackened by centuries of fire. Today, the upper part of the arch and the statue of the emperor that once graced it are lost, but its historical significance remains intact.
Recognizing the importance of preserving this architectural gem, the Porte Noire was classified as a historic monument in 1840. In recent years, a restoration project was undertaken to bring back its former splendor. From 2009 to 2011, the arch underwent a meticulous restoration process, with the aim of returning it to its original color. The project, funded by the city, the department of Doubs, the region of Franche-Comté, and the French state, breathed new life into this ancient marvel.
While visiting the Porte Noire, take the opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich history and culture of Besançon. Explore the nearby historic center, with its charming cobblestone streets and picturesque squares. Don't miss the opportunity to visit the Musée du Temps, housed in the Palais Granvelle, which offers a fascinating journey through time.
The Porte Noire is a captivating sight to behold at any time of the year. However, if you want to witness the arch in all its restored glory, plan your visit between spring and autumn when the weather is pleasant and conducive to outdoor exploration.
As you stand before the Porte Noire, let your imagination transport you back to the days of the Roman Empire. Marvel at the architectural prowess of the past and appreciate the efforts made to preserve this historical gem. Besançon's Porte Noire is a testament to the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations and a must-see for any history enthusiast or curious traveler.